![]() ![]() On the more recent models it’s at the back of the driver’s seat base. You do NOT want to connect any additional electrical devices to the bolts on this relay. There’s a special hook-in point for the auxiliary battery. The red cable at the front is from the starter battery. It’s the big black box to the right of the picture with the two copper bars going in to it. It does this by using a relay under the driver’s seat. You’ll always be able to start the van and drive. This way, you can power some electrical devices without running down your starter battery. The aux battery works by connecting to the alternator and the starter/engine battery whenever the engine is running, and then disconnecting whenever the engine is off. This second battery should be of exactly the same type as your starter battery (the one under the driver’s feet). If you have a factory option package that added an auxiliary or additional battery, you’ll have an extra battery under the hood, or maybe under the passenger seat. That way, if we ever have to take the Aux battery out (or if we run it down unintentionally) the door step will still work. For instance, we have our electric door step hooked to Terminal 30 so it always has power from the engine battery. The fuse should be rated for the wire diameter and length, not for whatever you’re attaching to the other end.Įven if you do have an aux battery, you might want to make use of these terminals. If you don’t you’ll get error codes that can only be reset with a diagnostic tool.Īny wires you connect to these studs need to have their own fuse. It’s only four bolts (the seatbelt can stay attached if you just move the whole seat toward the front of the van).ĬAREFUL: undo the wires that thread through the seat base cover board and up to the seat before you remove the board. Reconnect them before you reconnect the battery or turn the key in the ignition. Better still is to completely remove the driver’s seat. You might be able to reach this terminal by sliding the driver’s seat all the way forward and removing the board that covers the seat base. It’s got a black/yellow wire (Terminal 15) and it’s a 15A (180W) maximum current draw. On the right is a stud that provides power during ignition (when the key is in but the engine isn’t running).It has a 25A (300W) maximum current draw. This is a direct starter battery connection (Terminal 30) so it’s live all the time. In the middle is a stud with a red/grey wire.It has a 10A (120W) maximum current draw. This provides power when the engine is running (Terminal D+). On the left is a stud with a blue/yellow wire.In the picture below, I’ve already unclipped the terminal cover, which is now hinged up and away to the left. The X145 terminal is mounted on the top of one of the rails that goes from left to right across the top of the seat base. This set of connectors is called the “X145 Terminal.” It’s option EK1, so it’s often referred to that way too. You’ll find them under the driver’s seat. If you don’t have an auxiliary/additional battery package (no extra battery added by Mercedes under the hood, or under the passenger seat) then the only place you should really get power from is the special set of connectors made for that purpose. Starter (engine) battery connections on the Sprinter WARNING #2 – these photos are from a 2015 NCV3 2500 Sprinter van with a factory-installed aux battery. WARNING – before you go messing with any of the connections in this article, unhook the battery connection (just to the right of the accelerator pedal) and if you have an aux battery, unhook the positive or negative connector from the aux battery itself. Here are some photos to help make things clearer. There’s a lot of confusion about the different types of battery that you can find in Sprinter vans, and how to go about connecting to them in order to power things inside the van. ![]()
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